One-of-a-kind designs and painstaking weaving technique, an authentic patola is as intricate as it is impactful. A testament to its glory is its mention in religious texts like the Ramayan that refer its being a special part of wedding ceremonies. Such is its magnificence that this was also named ‘stridhan’, a jewel to be carried in bridal trousseau. An interesting feature of a Patolas that both sides of the fabric have equal intensity of colours and designs, thereby having no reverse side in this textile. Even though the patola fabric is said to be of Gujarati origin, its earliest mentions can be found in religious texts in South India too. The religious text Narasimha Purana talks about this fabric being worn by women during ceremonies and holy occasions. After the introduction Patola in the 11th century, Patola saris later, quickly became a sign of social status among Gujarati women, especially as part of their wedding trousseau.
Making of Patola
Patolas are manufactured by the resist-dyeing process using the warp and weft technique. It normally takes three people about four-to-seven months to weave a patola, making it expensive and time-consuming. The yarn undergoes multiple cycles of tying and dyeing, following a specific order of colours. Displacement of even a single yarn can disturb the design arrangement and make the entire set redundant. Every colour has a unique place in the design; which needs to be carefully aligned while weaving it. Such intricacy requires extreme precision and patience. A unique feature of the patola loom is that it is tilted to one side, and requires two people to work in tandem on one sari. Depending on the length and intricacy of the pattern, it can also take up to a year to make these pieces.
What are the different kinds of patola, and what makes them so unique?
Patolas are generally represented by abstract designs and geometric patterns. Elephants, human figures, kalash, flowers, shikhar, paan and parrots as well as designs inspired by the architecture of Gujarat are popular. The most sought-after designs each have their unique names like
Nari kunjar bhat (women and elephant patterns)
Paan bhat (peepul leaf motif)
Navratna bhat (square-shaped patterns)
Voharagaji (inspired by the Vohra community)
Fulvali bhatt (floral)
Rattanchowk bhat (geometric).
The complexity and time-intensiveness is what makes patola so valuable. A dizzyingly mathematical process, it involves intensive manual labour unlike the machine made ones. Natural dyes like catechu, cochineal, indigo, turmeric, natural lakh, harde, madder roots, manjistha, ratnajyot, katha, kesudo, pomegranate skin, henna and marigold are used in making them. The fact that they are reversible, their unfading bright colours, and their rich history add to the uniqueness and his luxury patola is expensive owing to the amount of intense hard work put into creating such a heritage master piece.
Patola and Ikat
patolas look very similar to ikat and poochampally. Just that patola is high labour derived silk material based clothing compared to the other two. But there are two kinds of Ikat patola that are widely sold in the textile market. Single Ikat Patola and Double Ikat Patola . Nowadays , there are many copies of patola like digital printed patola fabrics that are made for mass productions and can be attained by people of all creeds. And for those women who prefer salwar kameez in the place of patola in affordable ranges. These digital printed patola salwar kameez are your way to save pennies. But the double ikat patola are made only with silk material.
Designers who Love Patola
The country’s favourite designers are also reviving the ethnic weave. Designer Deepika Govind showcased it on the runway through saris as well as short dresses and skirts. Amit Aggarwal breathed new life into old Patola sarees by repurposing them for his eco-friendly Summer/Resort collection. Not to forget, Gaurang Shah, who has always supported heritage weaves. Patola has repeatedly made a prominent appearance in his collections. And my personal favourite is Vasansi Jaipur’s take on patola salwar suits , especially the patola long abaya style anarkali salwars that has its own stories to tell.
Patola Dupatta
Music woven into cloth, a silk patola is a grand utterance of culture and human story telling. Beautiful, intricate, majestic, and now accessible it is one of the many experiences that awe you into life. Padi patole bhat faatey pan phite nahin,” “The design laid down in the patola may wear out, but it shall never fade.” Patola dupattas are an ode to the beautiful weave and a prized possession by all women. The motifs on the patola dupattas are based on traditional designs such as flowers, animals, birds, human figures and the more conventional geometric patterns. With its resplendence making a mark and craving an elite state for itself, you deserve one to drape the beauty flaunting its exquisite weaves. For people believe in minimalism, keeping the looks simple and clean so that it doesn’t overpower the clothes, patola dupatta is the right choice for them . A rather plain monochrome salwar paired with exquisitely patola dupatta in contrasting overpowering shades and Kundan jewelleries is every brides maids and sisters of the brides dream wear.
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Patola Anarkali Salwar suit
For the love of classic Patola prints- a traditional suit carrying the charm of modesty- an ensemble that you can easily style both ways. Printed patola anarkali suits are your best options for the summer spring festival season . These digital printed patola anarkali suits comes in light weight and affordable ranges . The colours are very vibrant and catchy . There are variant silk patola anarkali , they come with many embellished embroidery work adding cherry to the already beautiful weave print . And the dupattas come in different materials too. Like crush dupatta and net dupatta with sequence or stone buttas. Pair them up with patola clutch bag and Juttis and american or zircon studded long earring . Patola anarkali salwar kameez are must have in every women trousseau.
Patola salwar kameez
You can spread aura of freshness with straight cut patola salwar suits. Printed patola in thread work, embroideries are for casual and semi casual wears. There are handwoven patola suit materials that can be stitched in to salwar suits that come with patola dupattas which are prices higher for the obvious reason. But for a budget friendly salwar, cotton printed patola salwar suits are available in wide ranges too that can be stitched into patola straight cut salwar suit, patola Patiala suit etc.
Patola salwar kameez or saris are considered a precious piece of inheritance, which can be passed down several generations. After all, there is an incredible level of skill and intricacy that goes into making it!
