The magic Majestic Banarasi lehenga
Banarasi lehenga simply explains richness and ethereal grandeur and royalty. Perfect for all sorts of special and auspicious occasions, these lehenga come in bright and bold colours with gold threads woven in them and even pastel hues are a trend now with both gold and silver threads woven in the fabric.They are slightly stiff, with a lush sheen throughout the dress that is shining and a feast to the eye.
History & Origin
Banarasi silk is a superior variety of silk which derived its name from the city Varanasi also known as Benaras in a state in uttar pradesh. The silk industry in Varanasi can be dated back to over 2,500 years. It is the world’s most ancient cottage industry and the most spectacular silk fabrics have been woven in Varanasi for over centuries. The saree making is a cottage industry for about 1.2 million people associated directly or indirectly with the hand loom silk industry of the region around Varanasi including Gorakhpur, Chandauli, Jaunupur, Bhadohi, and Azamgarh districts
Silk gained importance during the Mughal era, during the time of the Mughal Emperor Akbar(1556-1605CE). At this time weaving was predominantly done within the household and most of the weavers belonged to the Momin Ansari Muslim communtiy. One can see Mughal inspired motifs and designs on a Benarasi silk saree like intricate intertwining floral and foliage motifs, kalga and bel and a string of upright leaves known as jhallar.Emperor Akbar, so loved the silk work that he didn’t limit its use to clothing and even had his palace draped in it – carpets and wall hangings made from Banarasi silk. centuries later, the British colonizers too were baffled by this intricate handicraft.
Banarasi fabrics have been mentioned in the Buddhist texts dating back to 500-800 CE. It is mentioned that Buddha had sanctioned the use of these Benarasi silk shawls to the buddhist monks.
The influx from Persia and central Asia led to the evolution of workmanship that incorporated the use of ‘zari’ made out of gold and silver and also certain silk materials were sourced from China and Central Asia. During the 19th Century, these Banarasi fabrics became very popular.
Making of the Banarasi fabric
Flattened thin metallic strips are drawn from gold alloys. These delicate strips are then wound around silk yarns and the threads are then flattened using machines. Often they are passed through a brightener to increase their sheen.It is essentially these patras that give you everything from floral motifs to jali work and more. Based on these patras, the dyed silk and zari threads are wound into the handloom, to create the desired patterns.
Motifs
Back in the Mughal era, the designs on Banarasi fabric largely consisted of Islamic motifs such as floral patterns, stylised leaves, and the use of jali work (net), all of which can also be found also in their architecture.During the British era, the Victorians often demanded geometric patterns. Today, while Islamic motifs remain popular, one can find a variety of Hindu Gods embossed onto this fabric wall-hangings and even sarees.
Banarasi fabrics named according to their designs
Jangla
Its an ancient design and the name is drawn from the elegant jangla designs. It is made using an opulent muga silk from Assam and is a favorite choice for wedding ceremonies.
Tanchoi
It’s a very complex form of weaving method which uses one or two warp and upto five weft colors. Tanchoi fabric designs include beautiful paisley designs and criss-cross patterns.
Cutwork Benarasi
It has cutworks and floral motifs like jasmines, marigolds and foliage patterns. It is crafted using cut work technique on a plain texture using some cotton mixed with silk and are not not as expensive as the above ones.
Butidar
It is known as Ganga-Jamuna by the weavers of Benaras as the gold threads are darker in shade when compared to the silver threads.
Simple Banarasi lehenga
Heavy Banarasi fabric, brocades, katan, organza or tissue do not need heavy external ostentation or embellishments – as they are extremely lovely and attractive on their own. This ensures that Benaras weave lehenga choli are light in weight and easy to manage. These would look divine for festivals and ceremonies.
Bridal lehenga
Many Indian brides in Indian and as well as the ones staying abroad prefer Banarasi Lehengas as it has an inherent luster and richness, which is class apart . It is sure to make a bride look like she is from the mugal times when adorned with traditional Indian jewellery like kundan stone necklaces and earring with maang tikka and nose ring.
Occasions to flaunt to
It is even suited for pre-wedding functions like engagements and mehendi ceremonies. For the mehendi ceremony, choose banarasi lehenga of colours like orange and yellow to go with the sunny outdoors and the mehendi itself.
It’s even perfect as bridesmaid lehenga, in colours like beige,turquoise and peach with silver or golden banarasi work. This look can be beautified with pearl necklaces and even white stone jewellery.
Choli
Blouses and cholis with these apparels are either made in the same fabric, or can be plain silk – with lush Indian embroideries or work like zardozi, mirror work or even sequins and machine work. For an Indi-western twist you can also throw on an off shoulder blouse or a crop top.
Care guide
It is recommended that you dry clean Banarasi lehenga. However, if you choose to wash it at home, make sure to simply dip it in cold water a few times before hanging out to drip-dry. Do not use detergent in the first few washes and a clothes brush is an absolute no-no. You can either wrap the fabric in muslin cloth and store it away from sunlight or store it in a hanging position in your cupboard.
