Kasuti embroidery is an exquisite type of embroidery from northern Karnataka. It has become one of the most popular arts of this region and is exclusively associated with the villages in this part of the country. The embroidery artisans from this region are protected by a Geographical Indicator from the Government of India, which ensures that any profit made from the sale of this embroidery comes back to them. Kasuti embroidery is one of the oldest forms of Indian embroidery. Its origins can be traced as far back as the 7th century A.D. There are many different origin stories surrounding its origins. Some people believe it was brought to Karnataka from Gujarat while others believe it originated in the golden period of art and architecture during the rule of the Chalukya dynasty.
Though initially, it was only done in the region of Dharwad, over time, it spread to other parts of Karnataka and is today used across south India. This work was initially only done by women and till today, women remain an integral part of the Kasuti embroidery cottage industry. Traditionally, this type of embroidery was done only on hand-woven cotton fabrics dyed in darker colors, using light colored cotton threads.This is because initially, this form of embroidery was only done by hand using cotton materials. While the hand crafted aspect remains a must with this embroidery till today, other fabrics such as silk, georgette and even zari are also used today to create light and beautiful Kasuti embroidery designs. kasuti work is done on expensive silks like Mysore silk and Kancheepuram silk.
Motifs and patterns
Another key distinguishing characteristic of this embroidery style is the types of motifs used. Geometric patterns and temple inspired designs are the traditional patterns used by the artists. The aesthetic influence of the temples and architecture of the south can be seen in the kinds of Kasuti embroidery motifs that are frequently used. They usually go for intricate designs of conch shells, chariots, lotus flowers, palanquins, gopuras (temples), elephants and lamps. The motifs may be light and scattered all over but that is quite unusual. More often than not, they are intricately connected in a very beautiful, three dimensional pattern that has an extremely exquisite and artistic look. Rural inspired designs are also quite popular amongst the woman embroidery artists, who love creating domestic scenes intertwined with stylized shapes for Kasuti salwar kameez.
There are types of Kasuti work that can be seen in sarees and salwar kameez they are,
Ganti or Gavanti : the Ganti or Gavanti Kasuti work salwar kameez are made with horizontal, vertical or diagonal stitches and the stitches are reversible which will look same on the front and the back of fabric. It is a beautiful stitch which will look best on handloom salwar kameez and dupattas . Or only on cotton Dupattas.
Muragi: Muragi Kasuti work salwar kameez is a Zig Zag stitch , which looks beautiful on borders and kameez sleeves . A very simple pattern that be combines with other stitiches to give a butta like finish on the borders.
Negi : Negi Kasuti salwar kameez is a long and short straight line stitch , it is nothing but a simple stitch which can be worn on pure cotton or handloom cotton salwar kameez for casual wears.
Menthi : it is an ordinary cross stitch, the Menthi work Kasuti salwar kameez gives an elegant and graceful finish on your Kasuti salwar kameez.
Kasuti work salwar kameez are mostly exhibited in handloom craft exhibitions all around India. The eye for picking the right shades and threads combinations has earned a lot of respect in the artisan community. The floral and fauna patterns of designs on salwar kameez are famous in Kasuti embroidery . The special features that can be noticed in a Kasuti salwar kameez are that the artisans does not trace the designs but stitch the threads by memory, still making the embroidery neat and even making it as exquisite design. The famous Chandrakala saree which comes in mostly black or blue silk is woven specially for bridals , but these sarees can be made into salwar kameez also for a comfortable wear in later stages. They have catchy motifs and mirror works are one of embroidery works that adds charm to Kasuti embroidery .
There were times the Kasuti embroidery were going out of fashion, however in recent times there has been a revival of it sheets the interest in this ethnic artistry is slowly taking root. As many different type of salwar kameez are made with Kasuti embroidery unstitched materials . The most famous are the chudidhar and straight cut salwar kameez .
Kasuti embroidery is the style of embroidery that has caught the world unaware. Georgette and silk Kasuti salwar kameez also adds that special flavours for this style of embroidery. No weather can prevent you from wearing a Kasuti embroidery salwar kameez. The best part of wearing a Kasuti work attire is that you can wear any type of jewellery with it and it would look awesome on you. You can match an oxidised silver jewellery or gold plated jewellery, with added colorful glass bangles.
